Bogotá Transport Woes

1. Getting the Transmilenio at rush hour is like a Friday night out in Essex. It's so packed and bumpy that you just end up bumpin' and grindin' up against strangers for an hour.

2. When crossing the street in Bogota the green man does not signal safety, just that if you cross at that moment you have a slightly lesser chance of getting run over. 

3. How many people can you fit onto a buseta (mini bus)? Until its so packed you're face is wedged into to someone's armit and you are effectively dry humping a load of strangers, the answer is always more.

4. Queuing for the Transmilenio just doesn't happen. It's each man for himself at rush hour so throw away your manners, grit your teeth and do as the locals do by forcibly pushing and wedging yourself onto the bus. 

5. Every time you get in a taxi you will feel like you are going to die. It's like wacky races in high speed. Just sit back and appreciate the fact that at least you will probably get to your destination on time.

6. Taxi fittings. No seatbelts, no windscreen wipers. To the taxi driver who forgot to inform me that his windscreen wipers didn't work as I got in his cab in a storm. you are crazy. Leaning out of the window every 2 minutes and dabbing your windscreen with a cloth in super heavy rain is NOT a substitute for windscreen wipers.

7. Nothing in more depressing that sitting on the Germania bus at rush hour and it moving so slowly that you get overtaken by an elderly woman plodding along the pavement. 

8. Bus vendors singers, musicians, comedians and preachers. They grow on you. 

Colpatria: Bogotá From Above

The other day I went up the Colpatria skyscraper, the tallest building in Colombia. The views were amazing and you feel like James Bond because to enter the building you have to use a fingerprint and have your photo taken on a mini camera, all very exciting! To anyone planning on going up the building it costs 5000cop and remember to bring photo ID, you won't be allowed up without it. Here are a few photos from the top: 

Bogotá: May Day Protest (Día del Trabajo)

 

 

 

Living in Bogotá: the good, the bad and the strange

After 2 months living in Bogotá I'm still getting to grips with this enormous city but for me it is a place that just keeps getting better with time. Here are the good, the bad and the strange parts of living here so far:

The Good

# Bogotá's diversity and vibrancy- The city is alive and moves to a fast paced ever changing rhythm. Whereas other cities in the world seem stagnant and routine, Bogotá is ever changing, ever exciting, and there is always something to do. Similar to Brighton I find it impossible to walk down the street and not see, smell or hear something new every day; it is a city that keeps you on your toes.

#Bogotá Friendliness- It is impossible to go on a night out here and not make friends. Colombians are incredibly friendly, sociable and welcoming which makes settling into the city easier than other places.

#Freedom and Liberalness- Bogotá is a place where individuality seems to flourish and walking around you will see everything from tattoo clad punks to trendy hipsters as everyone seems to have their own style and there is a liberal and accepting vibe throughout the city. This liberal atmosphere is reflected in the amazing variety and quality of street art that adorns the city.

#Convenience- In England shops close early, so it is great to be in a place where you don't have to look far to get food and necessities at any hour. Restaurants, cafes and shops stay open later and the Bogotanos speak the clearest Spanish in the world, and  are extremely helpful and friendly making it an enjoyable and easy city to move to.

#Bogotá Nightlife- Nights out Bogotá style are about having a good time, making friends and dancing. Whereas in England dancing in a club often involves just standing on the spot and swaying your shoulders slightly here people really bring out the reggaeton and salsa moves, and its not uncommon to see a dance off now and then.

The Bad

#Transport- Transport it probably the only real issue I have with Bogotá  but saying that you adapt quickly. Whilst I can generally find my way back home from anywhere in the city by hopping on a bus getting to a place is a continual problem and I frequently have to get taxis. Also the buses can be slow, crowded and difficult to navigate and I am still trying to get to grips with the Transmileno routes.

#The Noise- Bogotá is a big noisy city and its hard to find a quiet place to relax if you need an escape from the hustle and bustle. Whilst this isn't really a big problem and the same in every major city it was really nice to get away from the noise to Villa de Leyva for a few days.

#Robbery- Whilst the outdated reputation of Colombia as a highly dangerous country full of terror is a false stereotype, walking around (especially at night) you always have to be mindful of your possessions, however you learn how to stay safe quickly. So far I haven't been robbed here but always follow local advice and don't walk home late at night if it's too quiet.

#Getting into a daily routine- Because Bogotá is so exciting and sociable it can be easy to get distracted from work, studies and a normal routine. It is easy to go out too much and though I have justified this for a bit on the basis that I've been making friends, it was difficult to establish some normality  for a while because its just so alive and fun here.

The Strange

#The Weather- Bogotá's weather is fickle, it can't make up it's mind and its not unusual to encounter a thunderstorm, rain and beautiful sunshine within the same hour.  However for me the climate here is perfect. It's warm enough you don't need to wear 15 layers, and cool enough your not constantly sweaty and tired- and the daily drizzle reminds me of England.

# Bus vendors and musicians- How do you make a bus journey not boring? let musicians, sellers and comedians come along for the ride! Often sat on a bus you will suddenly find someone hopping on for the ride to sell you sweets, watches,play songs and sing. Initially annoying I've grown to love these little journey interruptions.

#Shop Districts- In Bogotá stuff in sold in sections. If you want a book you go to book street, shoes are on shoe street, mirrors in mirror block. Initially confusing it makes perfect sense really. 

#Food- I love Colombian food and some of the strange combinations I've tried here including hot chocolate and cheese, meat on a stick (Pincho), little crisps in your burger, Wafers filled with jam, caramel and cheese all mushed together,  but there is a limit. Pineapple sauce on hotdogs...I will never understand why. yuck.

#Guinea Pig Gambling- I wrote about this strange game in a previous post. Really odd but great fun.

Colombia Tourist Visa Extension (Bogotá 2013)

This morning (April 2013) I went to the DAS office in Colombia to extend my visa and though I had read online some horror stories of people waiting 4 hours and only receiving a 1 month extension, for me the process was easy, relatively fast and painless. The process involves filling out a form, going to the bank to pay the visa fees, returning to the office with the bank receipt, documents and to get your fingerprints taken, waiting upstairs for your visa to be processed, done!

Most travellers to Colombia are entitled to stay maximum 180 days in the country per year on a tourist visa. You normally receive 90 days on entry and then can extend your visa up to another 90 days by visiting the DAS office in Edificio Platano on calle 100, 11b-27. How many days extension you get can vary person to person from 30-90, however I received a stamp for 90 days without even having to ask. It's best to get there early as the place gets crowded at lunchtime and be prepared to wait around a bit (For me the whole process took about an hour and a half). Also don't forget to bring a pen and money/card to pay the visa fee (76850cop at the time of writing).

Documents to bring with you to the office:

-Passport

-1 photocopy of passport information page (There are photocopying places nearby the office)

-1 photocopy of passport visa stamp page

-1 passport photo (I had heard that they had to have a blue background but I just took a normal UK passport photo and it was fine. If they did have an issue with your photo there are people on the pavement outside who can take/ print passport photos in 5 mins)

-Copy of a flight ticket out of the country (If you don't have a ticket I don't think it is too much of a problem.  A guy I met at the office had no flight and they simply asked him to state what he was doing in the country. Other people I've met have just explained that they are going to book a bus nearer the time out of the country and have been okay- It really depends on the person processing your forms).

Documents to get at the office/bank:

-Visa extension form

-receipt of visa fee payment 

What to do when you arrive:

1. Head to the information line and at the desk you will be given a form (In Spanish/English) to fill out and a piece of paper with a list of required documents and an explanation of how to pay the visa fee of 76850cop.

2. Fill out the form with your details (takes about 5 mins- I had no idea about my blood group so just put A+) then walk right out of the building about 4 blocks to Banco Occidente to pay the visa fees. When you arrive at the bank on the right there is a selection of pay- in slips and you need to fill out the one numbered 3, which is easy as there is a big example slip on the wall above showing you how to fill it in. Take the slip and money to the counter, pay, get a receipt and return to the office.

3. Go back to the information desk with all your documents, completed form and receipt. If everything is in order your documents will then be taken and you sit and wait until your name is called. Once your name is called you go get you fingerprints (huellas digitales) taken and are told to wait on the second floor at visa registration. Here you wait about 20mins until your name is called again and hey presto you (hopefully) receive your extension!

Overall a pretty simple process, just bring the right documents and be prepared to wait around a while!

Villa de Leyva: An English Tea Room in Colombia

Since arriving to Colombia I have been on a quest to find a decent cup of English tea. I've visited many cafes in Bogotá in search of a good cup but to no avail, and after 3 months without tea I was beginning to get withdrawal symptoms. When tea does appear on a drinks list here its normally just an unappetizing herbal tea bag bobbing pathetically on top of a mound of frothed milk, a far cry from the builders tea we consume with force in England. However there is hope! A few days ago my cravings were satisfied, as nestled down a side street in the beautiful and relaxing Villa de Leyva (4 hours from Bogotá by bus) can be found a real English Tea Room!

'La Taza de Té' is an English tearoom run by an incredibly friendly and animated Colombian woman called Berta who has lived in England for 30 years and knows how to make a good cup of tea. I was over the moon to enter her charming Cath Kidson esque place adorned with English memorabilia and find on the menu Earl Grey, PG Tips, and a selection of cakes and scones- cream tea! (I think I actually cried a bit with happiness when Berta brought over my Earl Grey in a real china tea pot). the prices are reasonable (6500cop for cream tea), the cafe is welcoming and relaxed, and the tea and scones are delicious-  overall a great place to enjoy a cup of tea English-style in one of Colombia's most beautiful towns. 

The tearoom can be found about a 5 minute walk away from the central plaza on calle 10. As Villa de Leyva is very quiet during the week the shops and cafes here seem to open and close as they please, however the cafe should be open Wednesday to Sunday from about 10am. Berta also mentioned that she is going to start serving an English breakfast on the weekend so to anyone craving a good fry up, this is the place to go.

Bogotá: Guinea Pig Gambling

    Oooh which one is he gonna choose!

Whilst in England the humble guinea pig (cuy) is seen as a beloved pet, in Colombia they are food- food and fine athletes. In England we may bet on greyhounds and horses but here it's guinea pigs. On the pavements of the city centre its not uncommon to see a crowd of people gathered around a line of multicoloured upside down bowls with a hole cut out at the front and a huddle of nervous looking guinea pigs a few metres away. The 'race' starts with an over enthusiastic commentator urging people to bet on which bowl the guinea pig will run towards by placing money on top of the bowls. One of the creatures is then prompted to trot towards the bowls and whoever has money on the bowl the animal enters wins back 5 times their bet. 

I can't say its the most thrilling sport to watch-mainly because guinea pigs are extremely slow and have no sense of direction. It is fun though watching a crowd of Colombians yelling encouragement and holding their breath as the animals decide which bowl to enter, and the screams of delight of the winners. Overall, a great way to spend a few pesos.

La Candelaria's Colourful Buildings

La Candelaria is Bogotá's oldest neighbourhood and the location of most of its backpacker hostels. It's a charming and friendly place where graffiti clad buildings sit alongside quaint colonial houses and a liberal modern university vibe flows through its cobbled streets. It is amazing to walk around the area and see the harmonious contrast of old and new against the mountainous backdrop that really makes La Candelaria so special. At night Plaza Del Chorro Del Quevedo, the 1538  founding place of Bogotá, comes alive as students congregate in the square to socialize, drink and listen to comedians and street musicians. La Candelaria really is a special place with a unique atmosphere, and its definitely worth taking at least a day to stroll around and get acquainted with the neighbourhood. Here are some pictures of the area:

Bogota's oldest house

Policemen zooming (giggle) around La Candelaria

Clothes Shopping in Bogotá

As Colombians are super fashionable and varied in their styles (Everything from hipster to punk to formal), clothes shopping here is great fun as you can find everything from designer labels to one-off vintage designs. In the shopping centres clothes are expensive, the same prices if not more than you would expect to pay in England, however  in the markets and streets bargains can always be found, and its always more fun to have to haggle a price. Here is what I've discovered so far:

Vintage/Second-hand

My favourite place to find vintage dresses (and really cheap) is the city centre Sunday market on Carrera Séptima. Here you can find everything from Seventies sunglasses to retro handbags for a good price (I paid 10000cop for this dress). There are also a few boutique stands in the market where clothes/accessories cost slightly more but are unique and often handmade. 

In Chapinero there is one stretch of road bursting with little second-hand clothes and shoe shops. Here you can find some real gems it just involves a few hours of rummaging and hard bargaining. My problem with these shops is that they were quite expensive for used clothes, but its still worth going to have a browse if you have the time. 

Shops

If your staying in La Candelaria and need clothes there are a few good shops on nearby carrera Séptima. My favourite shop so far in Bogotá is 'Tennis', which is not too expensive (about 30000cop for a top/blouse) and really similar to All Saints and Urban Outfitters. There is a store on Séptima calle 17-83 just be prepared to want to buy the entire shop. About 10m over the road on calle 18 there is a little shop called Kenzo Jeans which isn't amazing but a decent place to pick up standard blouses and shorts. A few girl's I've met have raved about Bogota's 'Forever 21' store which is apparently a lot cheaper than other shops here, and full of really cool stuff. Forever 21 is in Titan Plaza so to get there either jump in a taxi or get the Transmilenio to station Boyaca (con calle 80).

Artsy shops/stalls

Dotted around La Candelaria are a few one off shops selling clothes and accessories and the prices aren't too bad. However if your looking for unique clothes and gifts I would recommend going for a wander around the artistic neighborhood La Macarena where there are a few little shops selling unique knick-knacks and clothes. It's also a great place to people/outfit spot as the streets are lined with cafes and restaurants, and its only about a 15min walk from La Candelaria.

On Sunday Usaquén Flea Market takes places which is a really pleasant market to wander around full of Artisan handicrafts, food, and home-made made clothes and jewellery. The market is located in the Usaquén neighbourhood in the North of Bogotá against a quaint backdrop or bustling restaurant lined side-walks and mountains. Though they do sell some clothes here, its more accessories and handicrafts, but still definitely worth a visit as wandering the stalls is a great way to spend a lazy sunday afternoon. 

Items that are hard to find/expensive

So far I've found some really cool places to shop in Bogotá  however there are a few items which are proving difficult to find. Firstly tights, they are very expensive here compared to England. Also socks, I paid 6000cop for one pair of ugly socks today which seems ridiculous. Finally normal Kerby grips, they are seemingly impossible to find in anything other than fluorescent pink. If your planning an extended trip to Bogotá these items can all be picked up at the supermarket chain Exito (clothes can also be found here but they are not very nice) but its still not cheap so I would recommend stocking up before you come.

Street Art in La Candelaria (Bogotá)

After living in Brighton for three years where street art, murals and art instalments can be found dotted all around the city centre I really began to appreciate being surrounded by colourful works of art instead of just bland peeling walls, an appreciation which has grown immensely since being in Colombia. I'm currently living in La Candelaria (Bogotá), a historic neighbourhood full of colonial style buildings and friendly locals and encountered all of the following graffiti on a 5 min walk around the area. Bogotá is a city bursting at the seams with street art and I would recommend that any visitors to the city take a day to walk around and take it all in as there is a great mix of community art projects, political slogans and beautiful murals to be found on every corner. Alternatively 'Bogotá graffiti' organize a graffiti and street art tour which I'm planning to do this week. Here are a few examples of the street art La Candelaria has to offer:

This mural above is my favourite piece of street art so far in Colombia, I have no idea who painted it or what  it means but want to try and find out.

     

         

If you want to see more Bogotá graffiti last year the Guardian published a great series of photos called 'The graffiti of Bogotá – in pictures' which can be found online here.

                       

Bogotá flea market finds

Sunday is my favourite day in Bogotá for two reasons. Firstly because the whole city adopt a relaxed yet lively atmosphere with several miles of the city centre's roads closed for exercise. Locals flock to the streets on bicycles, skateboards and roller-blades and its great to wander around and soak up the street music and dance acts whilst dodging cyclists and ecstatic dogs chasing after their owners. Secondly, because of the city centre Sunday flea market, a bustling local market full of hidden gems and memorabilia from bygone days- a great place to pick up vintage dresses, dated cameras and antique books. So far I have managed to control my urge to buy everything on the basis that I don't have room in my bag for a 1970s style telephone and have only bought the bag and dress below which both cost 10000cop (£3.60).

Bri also picked up this great cocktail dress for 10000cop:

Basically, if your planning a trip to Bogotá and love a good English car boot sale, the city centre Sunday market is not to be missed. Similar to Brighton's 'Snoopers Paradise' it's a great place to spend a few hours rummaging for bargains and useless but beautiful junk.

Bogotá: First Impressions

Whilst several travellers I have met seem not to think much of Bogotá, after a week I never want to leave. I normally find large cities intimidating, stressful and difficult to navigate but Bogotá is just incredible. It has a vibrancy, liberalness and rhythm unmatched by other cities, an atmosphere boosted by Colombian friendliness, a love for good times, and a visible mix of old and new. Whilst strolling through the calles you see professionals chatting to local hippies, young policeman helping old ladies cross the street and tourists slotting quite happily into the local swing of life. It is a city that never fails to offer culture, excitement and a sense of liberation and acceptance.

Whilst the sights recommended by the guide books such as Plaza de Bolívar, Bogotá‘s many museums (including the amazing Botero gallery) and Monserrate are undoubtedly well worth a visit, the highlight of my time so far has been simply walking through the street and noticing the little things that make Bogotá so special. As you travel through different areas of the city colonial buildings sit alongside skyscrapers and public parks and each neighbourhood seems to move to a different rhythm. 

In Plaza de Bolívar towering government buildings set the scene for local families enjoying the simple pleasure of taking an afternoon stroll and feeding the squares flocks of pigeons (It is great fun-they eat out of your hand) whilst local teenagers line the steps of the central monument. The remnants of political unsettlement are visible on every building as several building s around the centre are splattered with colourful paint and political graffiti, remnants of past protests. In fact Bogotá is a city of graffiti and in most areas there is a mix of intricately painted pictures and political messages. Watching over the city are the infamous ‘green men’ who stand (or sit) atop building all over the town, the work of artist Jorge Olave who made the figures from recycled materials and in a way the whole of Bogotá is one big colourful gallery.

On Sundays over 70 miles of streets in the city centre are closed off for locals to exercise and Bogotá is at its best- lively, familial and fun.  Street performers line the pavements serenading visitors with everything from Jazz to Reggae. Last Sunday there was an incredible band playing made up of an accordion, guitar and saxophone player who belted out classic Jazz hits to the crowds. Whereas in England a passerby might stop for a minute or two whole families stood listening for a good hour whilst their children danced around. Further down the street lies the local Sunday flea market which is just the best place ever for anyone who likes a bargain. It’s like a really good car boot sale full of dated cameras, memorabilia, clothes, books- just about everything really.

Bogotá’s liberal and modern vibe is enhanced by its many universities (over 100) and large student population. Whilst the North hosts the more affluent population of Bogota and is more westernized areas such as Chapinero, La Candelaria and La Macarena have a real artsy, liberal feel full of good restaurants, bars and shops (In Chapinero there are some great second hand clothes shops). Owing to its large student population Bogotá offers an amazing nightlife with everything ranging from luxury bars to back street salsa clubs. The great thing about the nightlife here is it revolves around just having a lot of fun. Nights seem start (and end) with a bottle of Aguardiente, a Colombian spirit which tastes like Sambucca and is really popular and cheap here. The best thing about nights out here for me is that all my musical guilty pleasure have free reign and I can proudly declare my love for Daddy Yankee and reggaeton. Karaoke also seems to be quite popular. We went out with a group of Colombian lads which ended with an exuberant karaoke session in a basement garage and Bri and I trying to sing 'Total Eclipse of the Heart' in Spanish which was a huge failure.

In terms of food before I came to Colombia I didn't have high gastronomical hopes but it seems Colombian cuisine has been hugely downplayed. the city seems to have a snack culture and if hunger calls you don’t have to walk far to find a delicious empanada, fresh fruit or a tasty set lunch.  junk food is very popular and found on every street  but amidst McDonalds and hot dog stalls can be found friend plantain, fresh corn on the cob, chorizo, arepa and a whole host of other delicious snacks. The national dish Bandeja Paisa is a  giant plateful of food consisting of fried pork rinds, ground meat, plantain, rice, beans, chorizo, egg, arepa and avocado on a plate. Often knowing what to order is a guessing game as most menus are in Spanish and not many people speak English so being able to communicate to the locals makes a huge difference.

Finally when I told people I was going to Colombia the first thing everyone mentioned was safety. Owing to the Escobar era Colombia has a lingering and outdated reputation as an extremely unsafe country full of cartels, crime and danger. Whilst parts of Colombia are dangerous in Bogotá you just need to use common sense, listen to local advice and follow basic precautions.  Mind your bag when out and about, be cautious when walking home in the dark and don’t walk home alone or don’t stray into a dodgy neighbourhood.

After a week in Bogotá I have well and truly fallen in love with the place. It is an incredible city full of surprises, friendly people, great food, and a never-ending supply of things to see and do;  a city that exceeds all expectations.