Monday, 15 April 2013

Living in Bogotá: the good, the bad and the strange


After 2 months living in Bogotá I'm still getting to grips with this enormous city but for me it is a place that just keeps getting better with time. Here are the good, the bad and the strange parts of living here so far:

The Good

# Bogotá's diversity and vibrancy- The city is alive and moves to a fast paced ever changing rhythm. Whereas other cities in the world seem stagnant and routine, Bogotá is ever changing, ever exciting, and there is always something to do. Similar to Brighton I find it impossible to walk down the street and not see, smell or hear something new every day; it is a city that keeps you on your toes.

#Bogotá Friendliness- It is impossible to go on a night out here and not make friends. Colombians are incredibly friendly, sociable and welcoming which makes settling into the city easier than other places.

#Freedom and Liberalness- Bogotá is a place where individuality seems to flourish and walking around you will see everything from tattoo clad punks to trendy hipsters as everyone seems to have their own style and there is a liberal and accepting vibe throughout the city. This liberal atmosphere is reflected in the amazing variety and quality of street art that adorns the city.

#Convenience- In England shops close early, so it is great to be in a place where you don't have to look far to get food and necessities at any hour. Restaurants, cafes and shops stay open later and the Bogotanos speak the clearest Spanish in the world, and  are extremely helpful and friendly making it an enjoyable and easy city to move to.

#Bogotá Nightlife- Nights out Bogotá style are about having a good time, making friends and dancing. Whereas in England dancing in a club often involves just standing on the spot and swaying your shoulders slightly here people really bring out the reggaeton and salsa moves, and its not uncommon to see a dance off now and then.

The Bad

#Transport- Transport it probably the only real issue I have with Bogotá  but saying that you adapt quickly. Whilst I can generally find my way back home from anywhere in the city by hopping on a bus getting to a place is a continual problem and I frequently have to get taxis. Also the buses can be slow, crowded and difficult to navigate and I am still trying to get to grips with the Transmileno routes.

#The Noise- Bogotá is a big noisy city and its hard to find a quiet place to relax if you need an escape from the hustle and bustle. Whilst this isn't really a big problem and the same in every major city it was really nice to get away from the noise to Villa de Leyva for a few days.

#Robbery- Whilst the outdated reputation of Colombia as a highly dangerous country full of terror is a false stereotype, walking around (especially at night) you always have to be mindful of your possessions, however you learn how to stay safe quickly. So far I haven't been robbed here but always follow local advice and don't walk home late at night if it's too quiet.

#Getting into a daily routine- Because Bogotá is so exciting and sociable it can be easy to get distracted from work, studies and a normal routine. It is easy to go out too much and though I have justified this for a bit on the basis that I've been making friends, it was difficult to establish some normality  for a while because its just so alive and fun here.

The Strange

#The Weather- Bogotá's weather is fickle, it can't make up it's mind and its not unusual to encounter a thunderstorm, rain and beautiful sunshine within the same hour.  However for me the climate here is perfect. It's warm enough you don't need to wear 15 layers, and cool enough your not constantly sweaty and tired- and the daily drizzle reminds me of England.

# Bus vendors and musicians- How do you make a bus journey not boring? let musicians, sellers and comedians come along for the ride! Often sat on a bus you will suddenly find someone hopping on for the ride to sell you sweets, watches,play songs and sing. Initially annoying I've grown to love these little journey interruptions.

#Shop Districts- In Bogotá stuff in sold in sections. If you want a book you go to book street, shoes are on shoe street, mirrors in mirror block. Initially confusing it makes perfect sense really. 

#Food- I love Colombian food and some of the strange combinations I've tried here including hot chocolate and cheese, meat on a stick (Pincho), little crisps in your burger, Wafers filled with jam, caramel and cheese all mushed together,  but there is a limit. Pineapple sauce on hotdogs...I will never understand why. yuck.

#Guinea Pig Gambling- I wrote about this strange game in a previous post. Really odd but great fun.

Colombia Tourist Visa Extension (Bogotá 2013)


This morning (April 2013) I went to the DAS office in Colombia to extend my visa and though I had read online some horror stories of people waiting 4 hours and only receiving a 1 month extension, for me the process was easy, relatively fast and painless. The process involves filling out a form, going to the bank to pay the visa fees, returning to the office with the bank receipt, documents and to get your fingerprints taken, waiting upstairs for your visa to be processed, done!

Most travellers to Colombia are entitled to stay maximum 180 days in the country per year on a tourist visa. You normally receive 90 days on entry and then can extend your visa up to another 90 days by visiting the DAS office in Edificio Platano on calle 100, 11b-27. How many days extension you get can vary person to person from 30-90, however I received a stamp for 90 days without even having to ask. It's best to get there early as the place gets crowded at lunchtime and be prepared to wait around a bit (For me the whole process took about an hour and a half). Also don't forget to bring a pen and money/card to pay the visa fee (76850cop at the time of writing).

Documents to bring with you to the office:

-Passport
-1 photocopy of passport information page (There are photocopying places nearby the office)
-1 photocopy of passport visa stamp page
-1 passport photo (I had heard that they had to have a blue background but I just took a normal UK passport photo and it was fine. If they did have an issue with your photo there are people on the pavement outside who can take/ print passport photos in 5 mins)
-Copy of a flight ticket out of the country (If you don't have a ticket I don't think it is too much of a problem.  A guy I met at the office had no flight and they simply asked him to state what he was doing in the country. Other people I've met have just explained that they are going to book a bus nearer the time out of the country and have been okay- It really depends on the person processing your forms).

Documents to get at the office/bank:

-Visa extension form
-receipt of visa fee payment 

What to do when you arrive:

1. Head to the information line and at the desk you will be given a form (In Spanish/English) to fill out and a piece of paper with a list of required documents and an explanation of how to pay the visa fee of 76850cop.

2. Fill out the form with your details (takes about 5 mins- I had no idea about my blood group so just put A+) then walk right out of the building about 4 blocks to Banco Occidente to pay the visa fees. When you arrive at the bank on the right there is a selection of pay- in slips and you need to fill out the one numbered 3, which is easy as there is a big example slip on the wall above showing you how to fill it in. Take the slip and money to the counter, pay, get a receipt and return to the office.

3. Go back to the information desk with all your documents, completed form and receipt. If everything is in order your documents will then be taken and you sit and wait until your name is called. Once your name is called you go get you fingerprints (huellas digitales) taken and are told to wait on the second floor at visa registration. Here you wait about 20mins until your name is called again and hey presto you (hopefully) receive your extension!

Overall a pretty simple process, just bring the right documents and be prepared to wait around a while!

Saturday, 13 April 2013

Colombia's Diverse Landscapes

Cartagena
Villa de Leyva
Parque Tayrona
Minca
Santa Marta
La Boquilla
Pozos Azules (Villa de Leyva)
Bogotá 
Taganga
 Medellín



Friday, 12 April 2013

Villa de Leyva: An English Tea Room in Colombia


Since arriving to Colombia I have been on a quest to find a decent cup of English tea. I've visited many cafes in Bogotá in search of a good cup but to no avail, and after 3 months without tea I was beginning to get withdrawal symptoms. When tea does appear on a drinks list here its normally just an unappetizing herbal tea bag bobbing pathetically on top of a mound of frothed milk, a far cry from the builders tea we consume with force in England. However there is hope! A few days ago my cravings were satisfied, as nestled down a side street in the beautiful and relaxing Villa de Leyva (4 hours from Bogotá by bus) can be found a real English Tea Room!


'La Taza de Té' is an English tearoom run by an incredibly friendly and animated Colombian woman called Berta who has lived in England for 30 years and knows how to make a good cup of tea. I was over the moon to enter her charming Cath Kidson esque place adorned with English memorabilia and find on the menu Earl Grey, PG Tips, and a selection of cakes and scones- cream tea! (I think I actually cried a bit with happiness when Berta brought over my Earl Grey in a real china tea pot). the prices are reasonable (6500cop for cream tea), the cafe is welcoming and relaxed, and the tea and scones are delicious-  overall a great place to enjoy a cup of tea English-style in one of Colombia's most beautiful towns. 


The tearoom can be found about a 5 minute walk away from the central plaza on calle 10. As Villa de Leyva is very quiet during the week the shops and cafes here seem to open and close as they please, however the cafe should be open Wednesday to Sunday from about 10am. Berta also mentioned that she is going to start serving an English breakfast on the weekend so to anyone craving a good fry up, this is the place to go.





Sunday, 7 April 2013

Bogotá: Guinea Pig Gambling

    Oooh which one is he gonna choose!

Whilst in England the humble guinea pig (cuy) is seen as a beloved pet, in Colombia they are food- food and fine athletes. In England we may bet on greyhounds and horses but here it's guinea pigs. On the pavements of the city centre its not uncommon to see a crowd of people gathered around a line of multicoloured upside down bowls with a hole cut out at the front and a huddle of nervous looking guinea pigs a few metres away. The 'race' starts with an over enthusiastic commentator urging people to bet on which bowl the guinea pig will run towards by placing money on top of the bowls. One of the creatures is then prompted to trot towards the bowls and whoever has money on the bowl the animal enters wins back 5 times their bet. 

I can't say its the most thrilling sport to watch-mainly because guinea pigs are extremely slow and have no sense of direction. It is fun though watching a crowd of Colombians yelling encouragement and holding their breath as the animals decide which bowl to enter, and the screams of delight of the winners. Overall, a great way to spend a few pesos.






Friday, 5 April 2013

Thursday, 4 April 2013

Rapper Fish Costumes


My friend recently told me that her cousin was going to have a 'rapper-fish' themed party where your outfit has to combine a rapper and a fish. Since finding this out we have been obsessively brainstorming and quizzing everyone we know about what kind of costumes the guests will arrive in. Here are a few of the combinations we have come up with so far:

Pufferfish Daddy (Puff Daddy)
Prawn Kingston (Sean Kingston)
Whale Smith (Will Smith)
P. Squiddy (P Diddy- very proud of this one- here is a drawing of what I think this would look like)

Kanye John West (Kanye West/ John West Tuna)
Sea Eminemene (Eminem/ Sea Anenome- sounds better when you say it out loud)
Fishy Elliott (Missy Elliott)
MC Hammerhead Shark (MC Hammer)
Jessie Ray (Jessie J- not really a rapper but would make an excellent costume)
Fatboy Shrimp (Fat Boy Slim)
Squid Rock (Kid Rock)
Cee Lo Bream (Cee Lo Green)
Cray Z (Jay Z)
Dr Cray (Dr Dre)
Goldfish Lookin Chain (Goldie Lookin Chain)
Lauryn Krill (Lauryn Hill)
Tunashanti (Ashanti)

And a few other non rapper costumes that are still worth an honourable mention:

Bon Anchovi (Bon Jovi)
Lutricia McSeal (Lutricia Mcneal- no one seems to know who she is but aged 10 I had an unnatural obsession with her song 'stranded')
Macy Crayfish (Macy Gray)
Daddy Lamb Shanky (Daddy Yankee- okay so not a fish but still worth a mention)
Bob Calamari (Bob Marley)
Shrimp Biskit or Limpet Biskit (Limp Biskit)
Tuna Turner (Tina Turner)
Christuna Aguilera (This one is my favourite)
Rihannaconda (Rihanna)


The list is endless but we're still trying to think of ideas for 50 Cent, Lil Wayne, Busta Rhymes, Outkast and Snoop Dogg, so if you have any suggestions they would be greatly appreciated! and to anyone who decides to have a similarly themed party- you are great.

Here are some other ideas friends have come up with since reading this post!

Snoop Dogfish (Snoop Dogg)
Troutkast (Outkast- this one is amazing!)
De La Sole (De La Soul)
Insane Clownfish Posse (Insane Clown Posse)
Professor Bream (Professor Green)
Will Salmon (Will I Am)
Missy Halibut (Missy Elliot)
Squid Vicious (Sid Vicious)
Soulja Buoy (Not a fish but still nautical themed)
Cod Stewart (Rod Stewart)