Villa De Leyva Kite Festival

This weekend I went to a kite festival in the beautiful Villa de Leyva and have developed a huge admiration for anyone who can fly a kite. I also had two realizations over the weekend:

1. Flying a kite is actually quite hard, after trying and failing several times I had to give up and just blame the wind. My ambition for the next month is to go a park and get my kite up in the air.

2. Synchronized kite flying is really really cool. They had this display where the kites 'danced' around the plaza to classical music- I never knew kites could move so well.

One of the highlights of the trip was getting to visit the amazing English tearoom in Villa de Leyva and gorging on scones and a fry up- for anyone interested the place is called La Taza de Te and has moved to Calle Caliente. I wrote about this magical pg tips filled place in an earlier post here.

Overall it was a great weekend. Whilst you might expect a kite festival to be very family-orientated at night the plaza overflows with drinking, music, and generally good vibes. If anyone is planning to come to Colombia in the last two weeks of August the kite festival is definitely worth a visit.

Bogotá Transport Woes

1. Getting the Transmilenio at rush hour is like a Friday night out in Essex. It's so packed and bumpy that you just end up bumpin' and grindin' up against strangers for an hour.

2. When crossing the street in Bogota the green man does not signal safety, just that if you cross at that moment you have a slightly lesser chance of getting run over. 

3. How many people can you fit onto a buseta (mini bus)? Until its so packed you're face is wedged into to someone's armit and you are effectively dry humping a load of strangers, the answer is always more.

4. Queuing for the Transmilenio just doesn't happen. It's each man for himself at rush hour so throw away your manners, grit your teeth and do as the locals do by forcibly pushing and wedging yourself onto the bus. 

5. Every time you get in a taxi you will feel like you are going to die. It's like wacky races in high speed. Just sit back and appreciate the fact that at least you will probably get to your destination on time.

6. Taxi fittings. No seatbelts, no windscreen wipers. To the taxi driver who forgot to inform me that his windscreen wipers didn't work as I got in his cab in a storm. you are crazy. Leaning out of the window every 2 minutes and dabbing your windscreen with a cloth in super heavy rain is NOT a substitute for windscreen wipers.

7. Nothing in more depressing that sitting on the Germania bus at rush hour and it moving so slowly that you get overtaken by an elderly woman plodding along the pavement. 

8. Bus vendors singers, musicians, comedians and preachers. They grow on you. 

Colpatria: Bogotá From Above

The other day I went up the Colpatria skyscraper, the tallest building in Colombia. The views were amazing and you feel like James Bond because to enter the building you have to use a fingerprint and have your photo taken on a mini camera, all very exciting! To anyone planning on going up the building it costs 5000cop and remember to bring photo ID, you won't be allowed up without it. Here are a few photos from the top: 

Bogotá: May Day Protest (Día del Trabajo)

 

 

 

Living in Bogotá: the good, the bad and the strange

After 2 months living in Bogotá I'm still getting to grips with this enormous city but for me it is a place that just keeps getting better with time. Here are the good, the bad and the strange parts of living here so far:

The Good

# Bogotá's diversity and vibrancy- The city is alive and moves to a fast paced ever changing rhythm. Whereas other cities in the world seem stagnant and routine, Bogotá is ever changing, ever exciting, and there is always something to do. Similar to Brighton I find it impossible to walk down the street and not see, smell or hear something new every day; it is a city that keeps you on your toes.

#Bogotá Friendliness- It is impossible to go on a night out here and not make friends. Colombians are incredibly friendly, sociable and welcoming which makes settling into the city easier than other places.

#Freedom and Liberalness- Bogotá is a place where individuality seems to flourish and walking around you will see everything from tattoo clad punks to trendy hipsters as everyone seems to have their own style and there is a liberal and accepting vibe throughout the city. This liberal atmosphere is reflected in the amazing variety and quality of street art that adorns the city.

#Convenience- In England shops close early, so it is great to be in a place where you don't have to look far to get food and necessities at any hour. Restaurants, cafes and shops stay open later and the Bogotanos speak the clearest Spanish in the world, and  are extremely helpful and friendly making it an enjoyable and easy city to move to.

#Bogotá Nightlife- Nights out Bogotá style are about having a good time, making friends and dancing. Whereas in England dancing in a club often involves just standing on the spot and swaying your shoulders slightly here people really bring out the reggaeton and salsa moves, and its not uncommon to see a dance off now and then.

The Bad

#Transport- Transport it probably the only real issue I have with Bogotá  but saying that you adapt quickly. Whilst I can generally find my way back home from anywhere in the city by hopping on a bus getting to a place is a continual problem and I frequently have to get taxis. Also the buses can be slow, crowded and difficult to navigate and I am still trying to get to grips with the Transmileno routes.

#The Noise- Bogotá is a big noisy city and its hard to find a quiet place to relax if you need an escape from the hustle and bustle. Whilst this isn't really a big problem and the same in every major city it was really nice to get away from the noise to Villa de Leyva for a few days.

#Robbery- Whilst the outdated reputation of Colombia as a highly dangerous country full of terror is a false stereotype, walking around (especially at night) you always have to be mindful of your possessions, however you learn how to stay safe quickly. So far I haven't been robbed here but always follow local advice and don't walk home late at night if it's too quiet.

#Getting into a daily routine- Because Bogotá is so exciting and sociable it can be easy to get distracted from work, studies and a normal routine. It is easy to go out too much and though I have justified this for a bit on the basis that I've been making friends, it was difficult to establish some normality  for a while because its just so alive and fun here.

The Strange

#The Weather- Bogotá's weather is fickle, it can't make up it's mind and its not unusual to encounter a thunderstorm, rain and beautiful sunshine within the same hour.  However for me the climate here is perfect. It's warm enough you don't need to wear 15 layers, and cool enough your not constantly sweaty and tired- and the daily drizzle reminds me of England.

# Bus vendors and musicians- How do you make a bus journey not boring? let musicians, sellers and comedians come along for the ride! Often sat on a bus you will suddenly find someone hopping on for the ride to sell you sweets, watches,play songs and sing. Initially annoying I've grown to love these little journey interruptions.

#Shop Districts- In Bogotá stuff in sold in sections. If you want a book you go to book street, shoes are on shoe street, mirrors in mirror block. Initially confusing it makes perfect sense really. 

#Food- I love Colombian food and some of the strange combinations I've tried here including hot chocolate and cheese, meat on a stick (Pincho), little crisps in your burger, Wafers filled with jam, caramel and cheese all mushed together,  but there is a limit. Pineapple sauce on hotdogs...I will never understand why. yuck.

#Guinea Pig Gambling- I wrote about this strange game in a previous post. Really odd but great fun.

Colombia Tourist Visa Extension (Bogotá 2013)

This morning (April 2013) I went to the DAS office in Colombia to extend my visa and though I had read online some horror stories of people waiting 4 hours and only receiving a 1 month extension, for me the process was easy, relatively fast and painless. The process involves filling out a form, going to the bank to pay the visa fees, returning to the office with the bank receipt, documents and to get your fingerprints taken, waiting upstairs for your visa to be processed, done!

Most travellers to Colombia are entitled to stay maximum 180 days in the country per year on a tourist visa. You normally receive 90 days on entry and then can extend your visa up to another 90 days by visiting the DAS office in Edificio Platano on calle 100, 11b-27. How many days extension you get can vary person to person from 30-90, however I received a stamp for 90 days without even having to ask. It's best to get there early as the place gets crowded at lunchtime and be prepared to wait around a bit (For me the whole process took about an hour and a half). Also don't forget to bring a pen and money/card to pay the visa fee (76850cop at the time of writing).

Documents to bring with you to the office:

-Passport

-1 photocopy of passport information page (There are photocopying places nearby the office)

-1 photocopy of passport visa stamp page

-1 passport photo (I had heard that they had to have a blue background but I just took a normal UK passport photo and it was fine. If they did have an issue with your photo there are people on the pavement outside who can take/ print passport photos in 5 mins)

-Copy of a flight ticket out of the country (If you don't have a ticket I don't think it is too much of a problem.  A guy I met at the office had no flight and they simply asked him to state what he was doing in the country. Other people I've met have just explained that they are going to book a bus nearer the time out of the country and have been okay- It really depends on the person processing your forms).

Documents to get at the office/bank:

-Visa extension form

-receipt of visa fee payment 

What to do when you arrive:

1. Head to the information line and at the desk you will be given a form (In Spanish/English) to fill out and a piece of paper with a list of required documents and an explanation of how to pay the visa fee of 76850cop.

2. Fill out the form with your details (takes about 5 mins- I had no idea about my blood group so just put A+) then walk right out of the building about 4 blocks to Banco Occidente to pay the visa fees. When you arrive at the bank on the right there is a selection of pay- in slips and you need to fill out the one numbered 3, which is easy as there is a big example slip on the wall above showing you how to fill it in. Take the slip and money to the counter, pay, get a receipt and return to the office.

3. Go back to the information desk with all your documents, completed form and receipt. If everything is in order your documents will then be taken and you sit and wait until your name is called. Once your name is called you go get you fingerprints (huellas digitales) taken and are told to wait on the second floor at visa registration. Here you wait about 20mins until your name is called again and hey presto you (hopefully) receive your extension!

Overall a pretty simple process, just bring the right documents and be prepared to wait around a while!

Colombia's Diverse Landscapes

Cartagena

Villa de Leyva

Parque Tayrona

Minca

Santa Marta

La Boquilla

Pozos Azules (Villa de Leyva)

Bogotá 

Taganga

 Medellín

Villa de Leyva: An English Tea Room in Colombia

Since arriving to Colombia I have been on a quest to find a decent cup of English tea. I've visited many cafes in Bogotá in search of a good cup but to no avail, and after 3 months without tea I was beginning to get withdrawal symptoms. When tea does appear on a drinks list here its normally just an unappetizing herbal tea bag bobbing pathetically on top of a mound of frothed milk, a far cry from the builders tea we consume with force in England. However there is hope! A few days ago my cravings were satisfied, as nestled down a side street in the beautiful and relaxing Villa de Leyva (4 hours from Bogotá by bus) can be found a real English Tea Room!

'La Taza de Té' is an English tearoom run by an incredibly friendly and animated Colombian woman called Berta who has lived in England for 30 years and knows how to make a good cup of tea. I was over the moon to enter her charming Cath Kidson esque place adorned with English memorabilia and find on the menu Earl Grey, PG Tips, and a selection of cakes and scones- cream tea! (I think I actually cried a bit with happiness when Berta brought over my Earl Grey in a real china tea pot). the prices are reasonable (6500cop for cream tea), the cafe is welcoming and relaxed, and the tea and scones are delicious-  overall a great place to enjoy a cup of tea English-style in one of Colombia's most beautiful towns. 

The tearoom can be found about a 5 minute walk away from the central plaza on calle 10. As Villa de Leyva is very quiet during the week the shops and cafes here seem to open and close as they please, however the cafe should be open Wednesday to Sunday from about 10am. Berta also mentioned that she is going to start serving an English breakfast on the weekend so to anyone craving a good fry up, this is the place to go.

Bogotá: Guinea Pig Gambling

    Oooh which one is he gonna choose!

Whilst in England the humble guinea pig (cuy) is seen as a beloved pet, in Colombia they are food- food and fine athletes. In England we may bet on greyhounds and horses but here it's guinea pigs. On the pavements of the city centre its not uncommon to see a crowd of people gathered around a line of multicoloured upside down bowls with a hole cut out at the front and a huddle of nervous looking guinea pigs a few metres away. The 'race' starts with an over enthusiastic commentator urging people to bet on which bowl the guinea pig will run towards by placing money on top of the bowls. One of the creatures is then prompted to trot towards the bowls and whoever has money on the bowl the animal enters wins back 5 times their bet. 

I can't say its the most thrilling sport to watch-mainly because guinea pigs are extremely slow and have no sense of direction. It is fun though watching a crowd of Colombians yelling encouragement and holding their breath as the animals decide which bowl to enter, and the screams of delight of the winners. Overall, a great way to spend a few pesos.

Colombian Music

I arrived in Colombia with the naive idea that Shakira (the only Colombian musician I knew) would be blaring out of every stereo here. Since being here I've leant that Shakira is only  popular amongst 13 year old girls, and that Colombia has a huge variety of music on offer from lively salsa beats and Reggaeton tunes to Romantic ballads and Latin percussion. Colombians like to party and dance and this passion is reflected in the vast range of music you can can expect to encounter on a night out here. Regardless of your dancing abilities its impossible to enter a Colombian club and not want to shake your hips. Here are some of my favourite Colombian artists/songs/genres so far:

Totó La Momposina

Toto is an incredible musician of Colombian afro/indigenous descent and a legend of Colombia's percussion filled Cumbia style of music. (My favourite song is 'Oye Manita'-I can't find a decent video but here is the youtube link.

El Joe (Joe Arroyo)

Hailing from Cartagena El Joe was a maestro of salsa and the pride of Barranquilla (there is a statue in his honour in the city centre). I got acquainted with his music at Carnaval where his song 'En Barranquilla Me Quedo' was streaming out of every window.

Carlos Vives

Famous all over Latin America Carlos Vives is a bit cheesy but his songs grow on you very quickly and I don't think I've gone a day here without hearing this song.

Reggaeton

Not enjoying dancing to reggaeton music when in Colombia is like not drinking tea when in England, impossible. Reggaeton is everywhere here with Puerto Rican artists such as Don Omar, J Alvarez and the godfather of Reggaeton (and long standing guilty pleasure of mine) Daddy Yankee dominating the clubs. For me this is great, and for the many people who think they don't like reggaeton, it will very quickly grow on you. Here is a bit of reggaeton from  the Colombian artist L'oMy.

Choc Quib Town

I heard the hip hop sounds of Choc Quib Town for the first time 2 days ago and am already obsessed.

So far I'm really enjoying getting to know Latin American artists and different styles of music such as Mexican Ska, a genre I never dreamt I would love as much as I do. Anyone visiting Colombia, in particular the coastal towns, will very quickly be introduced to its music as it is impossible to walk down the street without hearing tunes streaming from every window. So leave your ipod at home and let yourself fall in love with new styles of music and be carried away by Colombia's energetic salsa beats and fun reggaeton tunes.

La Candelaria's Colourful Buildings

La Candelaria is Bogotá's oldest neighbourhood and the location of most of its backpacker hostels. It's a charming and friendly place where graffiti clad buildings sit alongside quaint colonial houses and a liberal modern university vibe flows through its cobbled streets. It is amazing to walk around the area and see the harmonious contrast of old and new against the mountainous backdrop that really makes La Candelaria so special. At night Plaza Del Chorro Del Quevedo, the 1538  founding place of Bogotá, comes alive as students congregate in the square to socialize, drink and listen to comedians and street musicians. La Candelaria really is a special place with a unique atmosphere, and its definitely worth taking at least a day to stroll around and get acquainted with the neighbourhood. Here are some pictures of the area:

Bogota's oldest house

Policemen zooming (giggle) around La Candelaria

Clothes Shopping in Bogotá

As Colombians are super fashionable and varied in their styles (Everything from hipster to punk to formal), clothes shopping here is great fun as you can find everything from designer labels to one-off vintage designs. In the shopping centres clothes are expensive, the same prices if not more than you would expect to pay in England, however  in the markets and streets bargains can always be found, and its always more fun to have to haggle a price. Here is what I've discovered so far:

Vintage/Second-hand

My favourite place to find vintage dresses (and really cheap) is the city centre Sunday market on Carrera Séptima. Here you can find everything from Seventies sunglasses to retro handbags for a good price (I paid 10000cop for this dress). There are also a few boutique stands in the market where clothes/accessories cost slightly more but are unique and often handmade. 

In Chapinero there is one stretch of road bursting with little second-hand clothes and shoe shops. Here you can find some real gems it just involves a few hours of rummaging and hard bargaining. My problem with these shops is that they were quite expensive for used clothes, but its still worth going to have a browse if you have the time. 

Shops

If your staying in La Candelaria and need clothes there are a few good shops on nearby carrera Séptima. My favourite shop so far in Bogotá is 'Tennis', which is not too expensive (about 30000cop for a top/blouse) and really similar to All Saints and Urban Outfitters. There is a store on Séptima calle 17-83 just be prepared to want to buy the entire shop. About 10m over the road on calle 18 there is a little shop called Kenzo Jeans which isn't amazing but a decent place to pick up standard blouses and shorts. A few girl's I've met have raved about Bogota's 'Forever 21' store which is apparently a lot cheaper than other shops here, and full of really cool stuff. Forever 21 is in Titan Plaza so to get there either jump in a taxi or get the Transmilenio to station Boyaca (con calle 80).

Artsy shops/stalls

Dotted around La Candelaria are a few one off shops selling clothes and accessories and the prices aren't too bad. However if your looking for unique clothes and gifts I would recommend going for a wander around the artistic neighborhood La Macarena where there are a few little shops selling unique knick-knacks and clothes. It's also a great place to people/outfit spot as the streets are lined with cafes and restaurants, and its only about a 15min walk from La Candelaria.

On Sunday Usaquén Flea Market takes places which is a really pleasant market to wander around full of Artisan handicrafts, food, and home-made made clothes and jewellery. The market is located in the Usaquén neighbourhood in the North of Bogotá against a quaint backdrop or bustling restaurant lined side-walks and mountains. Though they do sell some clothes here, its more accessories and handicrafts, but still definitely worth a visit as wandering the stalls is a great way to spend a lazy sunday afternoon. 

Items that are hard to find/expensive

So far I've found some really cool places to shop in Bogotá  however there are a few items which are proving difficult to find. Firstly tights, they are very expensive here compared to England. Also socks, I paid 6000cop for one pair of ugly socks today which seems ridiculous. Finally normal Kerby grips, they are seemingly impossible to find in anything other than fluorescent pink. If your planning an extended trip to Bogotá these items can all be picked up at the supermarket chain Exito (clothes can also be found here but they are not very nice) but its still not cheap so I would recommend stocking up before you come.