Bogotá: First Impressions

Whilst several travellers I have met seem not to think much of Bogotá, after a week I never want to leave. I normally find large cities intimidating, stressful and difficult to navigate but Bogotá is just incredible. It has a vibrancy, liberalness and rhythm unmatched by other cities, an atmosphere boosted by Colombian friendliness, a love for good times, and a visible mix of old and new. Whilst strolling through the calles you see professionals chatting to local hippies, young policeman helping old ladies cross the street and tourists slotting quite happily into the local swing of life. It is a city that never fails to offer culture, excitement and a sense of liberation and acceptance.

Whilst the sights recommended by the guide books such as Plaza de Bolívar, Bogotá‘s many museums (including the amazing Botero gallery) and Monserrate are undoubtedly well worth a visit, the highlight of my time so far has been simply walking through the street and noticing the little things that make Bogotá so special. As you travel through different areas of the city colonial buildings sit alongside skyscrapers and public parks and each neighbourhood seems to move to a different rhythm. 

In Plaza de Bolívar towering government buildings set the scene for local families enjoying the simple pleasure of taking an afternoon stroll and feeding the squares flocks of pigeons (It is great fun-they eat out of your hand) whilst local teenagers line the steps of the central monument. The remnants of political unsettlement are visible on every building as several building s around the centre are splattered with colourful paint and political graffiti, remnants of past protests. In fact Bogotá is a city of graffiti and in most areas there is a mix of intricately painted pictures and political messages. Watching over the city are the infamous ‘green men’ who stand (or sit) atop building all over the town, the work of artist Jorge Olave who made the figures from recycled materials and in a way the whole of Bogotá is one big colourful gallery.

On Sundays over 70 miles of streets in the city centre are closed off for locals to exercise and Bogotá is at its best- lively, familial and fun.  Street performers line the pavements serenading visitors with everything from Jazz to Reggae. Last Sunday there was an incredible band playing made up of an accordion, guitar and saxophone player who belted out classic Jazz hits to the crowds. Whereas in England a passerby might stop for a minute or two whole families stood listening for a good hour whilst their children danced around. Further down the street lies the local Sunday flea market which is just the best place ever for anyone who likes a bargain. It’s like a really good car boot sale full of dated cameras, memorabilia, clothes, books- just about everything really.

Bogotá’s liberal and modern vibe is enhanced by its many universities (over 100) and large student population. Whilst the North hosts the more affluent population of Bogota and is more westernized areas such as Chapinero, La Candelaria and La Macarena have a real artsy, liberal feel full of good restaurants, bars and shops (In Chapinero there are some great second hand clothes shops). Owing to its large student population Bogotá offers an amazing nightlife with everything ranging from luxury bars to back street salsa clubs. The great thing about the nightlife here is it revolves around just having a lot of fun. Nights seem start (and end) with a bottle of Aguardiente, a Colombian spirit which tastes like Sambucca and is really popular and cheap here. The best thing about nights out here for me is that all my musical guilty pleasure have free reign and I can proudly declare my love for Daddy Yankee and reggaeton. Karaoke also seems to be quite popular. We went out with a group of Colombian lads which ended with an exuberant karaoke session in a basement garage and Bri and I trying to sing 'Total Eclipse of the Heart' in Spanish which was a huge failure.

In terms of food before I came to Colombia I didn't have high gastronomical hopes but it seems Colombian cuisine has been hugely downplayed. the city seems to have a snack culture and if hunger calls you don’t have to walk far to find a delicious empanada, fresh fruit or a tasty set lunch.  junk food is very popular and found on every street  but amidst McDonalds and hot dog stalls can be found friend plantain, fresh corn on the cob, chorizo, arepa and a whole host of other delicious snacks. The national dish Bandeja Paisa is a  giant plateful of food consisting of fried pork rinds, ground meat, plantain, rice, beans, chorizo, egg, arepa and avocado on a plate. Often knowing what to order is a guessing game as most menus are in Spanish and not many people speak English so being able to communicate to the locals makes a huge difference.

Finally when I told people I was going to Colombia the first thing everyone mentioned was safety. Owing to the Escobar era Colombia has a lingering and outdated reputation as an extremely unsafe country full of cartels, crime and danger. Whilst parts of Colombia are dangerous in Bogotá you just need to use common sense, listen to local advice and follow basic precautions.  Mind your bag when out and about, be cautious when walking home in the dark and don’t walk home alone or don’t stray into a dodgy neighbourhood.

After a week in Bogotá I have well and truly fallen in love with the place. It is an incredible city full of surprises, friendly people, great food, and a never-ending supply of things to see and do;  a city that exceeds all expectations.