Medellín: Nice But Boring

A lot of travellers I’ve met are infatuated with Medellín and whilst it is undeniably a safer, cleaner, easier to navigate (it has a metro) and more European-like city than Bogotá, to be honest I found it boring. Medellín lacks the spirit and rhythm that consumes Bogotá, and whilst it might be ‘nicer’, there just didn’t seem to be much going on there. If Bogotá boasts a vibrancy similar to London then Medellín is comparable to Guildford; pleasant but dull. Once the centre of the global drug industry and home of Pablo Escobar Medellín has reinvented itself completely and how now become a key stop on Colombia’s tourist trail, but it lacks the colour, friendliness and music that streams from every window in most other Colombian cities.

The Lonely Planet raves of Medellín’s night-life as one of the highlights of a trip to Colombia, a statement that is just- well, wrong. A better way to sum up the night-life would be disappointing. The famed Zona Rosa/ Parque Llenares area, the hub of Paisa night-life is packed full of bars and clubs but is pricey and resembles a scene from Ibiza complete with a Hooters. Whilst it might be some traveller’s cup of tea it lacks soul and authenticity and seems well fake. (On the subject of fake cosmetic surgery is very popular here and the Zona Rosa is a great place to spot boob jobs and bum implants). Before Medellín I read about one club which we were desperate to visit but alas it was closed. 'Dulce Jesus Mio' seems like Disneyland on acid and celebrates New Years Eve every night with dancers, singers, comedians and balloon animals- the promise of a visit to this seemingly magical place is the only thing that could tempt me to return to the city.

Medellín is usually the next town frequented by gringos after Bogotá and this seems to be why many people enjoy it so much. Bogotá does not seem to be popular with travellers and many people say they see Medellín as a refuge after experiencing the noise and chaos of Bogotá. In terms of things to do in the city whereas in Bogotá music, sights, art and activities can be found on every corner, there didn't seem to be much to see/do here at all. Many of the town’s museums and sights of interest can be found around Plaza Botero, a lively square full of the statues of Fernando Botero. There are also some good cheap places to get a set lunch here and a nice fruit market to wander around.

Another popular activity is to take the cable car up to Arví park however this was closed so we took the cable car the other side of town which really gives you a glimpse into daily life in the Barrios and an appreciation of the huge size of the city with great views. The cable car – which was constructed for the people in the barrio- takes you on a loop over one of the Barrios but is low so you can do some great people watching. 

Other activities include the Botanical garden which was nice to wander around, day trips to nearby places such as Guatape, and the controversial Pablo Escobar tour. I was initially hesitant that this tour, which takes you to the places of importance in Escobar's life, would be   almost glorifying the repellent man who ruined Colombia for decades, but it turned out to be really informative and interesting. Our guide placed less emphasis on the places we visited instead informing us of the social, cultural and personal impact of the Escobar era. However by far the best moment of my time in Medellín was going to a rowdy football match and soaking up the atmosphere of the game. The crowd are so energetic and full of life singing songs and dancing nonstop to the beat of a full brass band; it really puts English football fans to shame. Also there was some nice graffiti and a giant 'Te Quiero Medellin’ statue dotted around near the Botanical garden which are worth a visit if you’re in the area.

Whilst our experience of Medellín might have been tainted by the fact that it rained every day and we were suffering from Bogotá withdrawal symptoms, overall it was a real letdown and for me only worth visiting if you want to party in bad clubs or enjoy being bored.